Painting an Island Top-Faux Marble

Popping in today to share a really special makeover. I have had this Kitchen Island for just about as long as we have been in this house, so twentyish years. It weighs a ton, and is rock solid, it was white for 19 of those years. It was covered with a funky kind of paint/plastic not really sure what it was, but it started to yellow, so I decided a year ago to paint it, of course. I painted the bottom with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in Duck Egg blue, and I am still loving it, it held up great. Remember chalk paint can be used over just about any type surface, successfully. I painted the top black to coordinate with my black counter tops, and covered it with three coats of a very costly clear, flat, topcoat, and I allowed it to cure for the suggested 28 days. Unfortunately the black paint and top coat, did not hold up well, even though I followed all the instructions to a tee, the weight of a heavy marble pastry board and a cast iron scale, left impressions in the finish, allowing for chipping and peeling to start. So, it could have been my fault. That said, I don’t give up easily, so I’m back with different products and a different idea. I realized when the black paint started to peel and scratch, that had I painted it white again, the scratches would not have been so visible. Because of that I need to strip off the black, and that is where we will start.

Here is a before picture. Please ignore my floors they are on the list to be refinished.

I am using Citra-Strip which I have used before, and is as easy as it gets. They recommend the use of googles, gloves and open a window, even though there is very little oder and the slight oder is pleasant. I started out by taping around the edges to protect the blue paint. I then covered the entire top, with a heavy coat of the Citra-strip, waited the 15 minutes, and the paint scraped up and off pretty easily. It took it down to the white, but there were still spots of black and places where it was chunky, so coat two, and 15 minutes later, time to scrape again. This time when I went in to scrape, the white paint/plastic coat came off, I was not expecting that, and under that was what looked like a coat of tar. I mean I am not even really sure what it was, it gave me a headache and had a really weird smell. And so, coat three to get the black off again. YIKES. Then a good soap and water clean and then a good clean with TSP. We are down to the wood now, because of this I should get a really good bond with the primer and paint.

Here we have the first coat of stripper, I followed the directions and waited the 15 minutes, and then using a putty knife scraped the black paint off easily.

Getting ready for coat two.

….and then coat 3, and down to the bare wood.

My goal was to make every effort to have a finished product that looked store bought.

So using Heirloom Traditions Ultra Guard Primer, I gave the piece its first coat and then a second, for a solid white base.

I allowed the primer to dry completely, over night and then gave the piece one coat of Heirloom Traditions Paint in A La Mode. I only used one coat of paint because I was about to give the piece a faux marble paint effect, and I wanted to be sure I didn’t end up with so many coats of primer, paint, faux marveling, pearly finishes, and top coats, that it could start to become too many coats. Because of this I was careful to keep my coats, thin, because I planned to layer so many products in an attempt to achieve a realistic marble look and feel. Below is the end result of the marbling which looks harder than it is. I created a practice board that I worked on, before I moved to the island top. I did this to get a feel for the products as well as practice my marbling technique. I am not a professional, just artistic by nature, and I believe I can do it, if I have a desire to. I mapped out on a piece of paper the design I wanted to recreate on the island top, so that I had a guide and idea of what I believed to be believable. Then using an artist brush which was about 1/4 inch maybe less, I dipped my brush into Heirloom Traditions Paint in Repose, and I began to copy my design from paper to island top. It was a simple mapping, so nothing prefect at this point, and it didn’t matter, because I was gong to go back in with a dampened Sea Sponge to soften the lines. So there are really no mistakes at this point. I had a tray of paint ready with my Sea Sponge that I used over and over to soften the lines, and to lay on the second coat of paint in between the lines, softly. After the initial mapping and softening, I repeatedly when in with the artist brush and then the softening sponge. I would hold my artist brush out on the tip, and allow it to curve and roll it in between my fingers, turning it upside down and around again, to keep the lines, looking like movement. To me, this is what created the realistic look, and then I would go back in with the dampened Sea Sponge and the A La Mode paint, to soften out the lines, not always in the same areas, because I wanted the connecting lines to appear like they went over in some areas and under in others. I did all of the marbling in about one hour, because I wanted to work while the paint was wet. If you were to work on a larger project, I would suggest mixing your paint with a clear glaze to extend the dry time. Once I was happy with my end result, I applied a coat of Heirloom Traditions Metallic Masters top coat in Precious Pearl, my goal was to have a lit from within look, kind of glassy. I painted one coat per day for two days, to allow each coat to cure, for a total of two, but thin coats.

Next up I wanted a durable finish, so I chose Heirloom Traditions Top Coat in Satin. I applied this final two coats of top coat a little differently. Here I am going to use a sponge for a finished product that has minimal brush marks. I used a brush to lift the product from the can and place it on the island top, placing it all over, then using the True Applicator from Heirloom Traditions. I dampened the sponge, and ran it from one end to the other, back and forth, making sure to get all the edges. I allowed this coat to dry over night, then lightly sanded with a 400 grit sandpaper, and applied the second coat the same as the first. Again allow to dry completely, and cure, before returning to normal use. I plan to give it a good week, and then just use it lightly for as long as we can hold out.


Thanks for Stopping by the Blog

Tammy Damore

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